Day 5 May 17th

A long 20 mile walk today, not a difficult walk by any means, no steep climbs, no rugged terrain and paths. The walk was from Shap to Kirkby Stephen, this was the day when you are basically going from the edge of the Lake District to close by the Yorkshire Dales, the area being walked is in the Eden Valley, a lush green landscape, easy on the eye. Mike and Andreas again made up a threesome, this would also be Andreas's last day, going back to Holland, but hoping to come back and complete the C2C later in the year, heres hoping you do manage to do so.
The first notable feature as we made our way from Shap was not a natural feature, but man made, the footbridge taking us over the M6 motorway, noisy and busy, it made me recall the same experience as last year doing the Pennine Way, then crossing over the M62 trans Pennine motorway. We soon reached a more natural feature around Great Ashby Scar, this was a area scattered with limestone, making it look like a huge footpath or rock.

Apologies, but camera lens still not cleared yet

About this distance in you have an option, carry on to Kirkby Stephen or do a more shorter walk, staying in a village called Orton. An international crisis nearly developed in our small walking party, Andreas was reading his map when he said to me, that way over there will take us to Orton, I glanced at his map, he had our route marked on it, "No, no Andreas, that isn't right, look at my OS map, its the complete opposite, anyway were not going to Orton". He was adamant that he was correct, I was certain I was correct, I then took a closer look at his book with the map page showing, I looked closer still, Mick you bloody idiot, not having my reading glasses on to see clearly, Andreas was looking at his book upside down, correctly so because he was following our route in the direction we were walking. So crisis diverted, we were both correct, only in our totally differring views, it made us both smile.
We carried on, making great progress, it really was easy going, we came upon Smardale Beck, crossed the bridge, then making our way up the opposite hillside we had fine views of the old disused railway line and its curved viaduct.

Approaching Smardale Beck and bridge crossing

Smardale with viaduct in centre

We went on our way, approaching Kirkby Stephen Andreas left us a mile south of the village, making his way to nearby Nateby, we shook hands, said our goodbyes, a real nice guy. Me and Mike then split up and made our way to our designated accommodations for the evening, he did come down a bit later, had a pint and a quick chat with me and Liz, then left us for the evening.
Later on our good friends Lew and Jo arrived to meet and join us, Lew about to walk with me over the next two days, while Jo will be travelling with Liz on her daily escapades. We had a few drinks, our evening meal then it was bedtime, tomorrow will lead us into the second National Park, the delightful Yorkshire Dales

Day 4 May 16th

After yesterday's escapade all I heard from my lovely caring wife was, "Please use common sense, you've nothing to prove to anyone especially yourself, have a day off, rest day, call it whatever you want to, just don't go risking walking on your own in that again". This started the previous night and carried on this morning, I had reluctantly came to the same decision myself, abandon today, live to fight another day etc etc. She was right, if she had been able to see me "fly on the wall" style yesterday she would ban me from walking, divorce me or take out a very big life insurance policy on me.
We sat in the pub having breakfast, sad and dejected as I was, we happened to see a guy sitting opposite our table kitting himself ready for another days walk. He overheard me and Liz talking, he turned to me and said "you not walking today then", I said no, not after yesterday plus the rain was still coming down this morning making things worse. He said come and walk with me if you want, he had a GPS gadget, waterproofed and all that, he was meeting another guy, Andreas a Dutchman he'd bumped into yesterday. Liz looked at me, I looked at her, words didn't have to be spoken, she was happy I wouldn't be walking alone, I was happy, the last thing I wanted to was miss a days walk.
Before we went on our way I said to Liz, that if she came across an outdoor store on her days travels, get me a bloody good waterproof mobile cover.
Andreas turned up, we shook hands, Mike the guy who rescued me led the way and 3 happy walkers were on their way, after all, even though it was raining things couldn't get worse than yesterday could they? the answer is yes and no.

Myself, Andreas and Mike

We climbed diagonally across the fells to Boredale Hause then it more or less levelled out to get to Angle Tarn. Now unlike yesterday, the paths were recognisable, but the downside today was wind, very high winds, making the rain hit you side on almost horizontaly, we had to take care but we made decent progress. We made our way across to Kidsty Pike, the highest point on the C2C at 780 metres (2,559 ft). We made our descent off the fells but one tricky section across Kidsty Howes had to be desended very carefully, steep and walking through a narrow path scattered with rocks, ankle and leg breaking area if ever there was one. We eventually came to the bottom and then had a walk of about 4 miles around the north bank of Haweswater Reservoir. Once you reach this point its bye bye Lake District, so disappointed that the same as yesterday, mist obscure any views from the tops, ok some you win, some you lose. It was then a flattish cross country walk to reach Shap, the village we were all staying in tonight, Mike, Andreas and myself had decided we would walk as a threesome tomorrow, this would also be Andreas last day before he goes back to Holland.
One small thing we came across today, something that restores my faith in people, going over a style on a very quiet lane we saw "Tommy's honesty box". A box full with snacks, sweets, pop, fruit juices etc, a small box with cash inside, presumably untouched, it made me smile and get a lovely warm glow inside.

Photo taken with my misted up camera

Somebody, a boy, a man "Tommy" as the faith in his fellow man to leave this for us, and we as good honest people to use this in good faith also. I was an happy man today. Just a few photos today, these were thankfully taken by Mike, my camera and mobile camera was still a bit foggy from yesterday.

Myself and Andreas somewhere near Angle Tarn, weather seems to be OK at this time

Same two again, or 2 old men if you like, me 66, Andreas an unbelievable 69.

Just left the Lake District at this point

PS Liz got me a waterproof mobile cover, thanks my guardian angel

Day 3 May 15th

A rainy start to the day, to be expected when you do these long distance walks, accommodation all booked months ago, you can't pick and choose when you walk. Oh boy, what a pity you can't do that. This 15/16 mile walk was always going to be tough, 3,500 feet climbing to be done over two high fells, I started off and soon was walking my way up to Greenup Edge, climbing the path alongside Stonethwaite Beck leading to Greenup Gill, the views I must admit were fantastic, with all the rain that had been falling, waterfalls up the streams were full and raging, truly marvellous sight. The rain was making life rather difficult though, as I was passing people on the way up, even at this short time into the days walk, some were on about turning back, things were getting difficult.
Shortly before I reached Greenup Edge I again met Shawn and Vitrold from day 1, I'm pleased to say it made me a bit more happier. We made our way over Greenup Edge, covered in mist, raining cats and dogs and with a small ammount of luck we navigated our way over to Grasmere Common. I had never seen anything like it, water was gushing down any incline, north, south, east and west, about a dozen walkers seemed to be wandering around aimlessly trying to get across the water, all around you were walking in bog, the ground had became totally sodden, you risked life and limb jumping, wading, stepping stone your way through. Once we had got to find a somewhat recognisable path, I had to say my goodbyes to my walking partners, they were stopping in Grasmere, I had double their distance today, they understood.
I reached the main Grasmere to Keswick road, I found the path to take me alongside Tongue Gill, checked GPS on my mobile, shit, not working, damp had got to my phone, I could still read map on my mobile and had my compass, as long as I stayed on the path and carefully navigated myself around Grisedale Tarn on top I would find the valley down into Patterdale. Sounds simple enough, maybe it would have been a pleasure on a nice day, today though was not a nice day. The climb alongside Tongue Gill was steep, then it got very steep, it was getting more mistier as I got higher, I'm sure it even got steeper the closer I got to the tarn. At first when it levelled out I couldn't even see the tarn, it was so misty. I followed the tarn as far its north east corner, through the mist I could make out a small rectangular shape, obviosusly manmade, please let it be where Brothers Parting Stone is. It was, thank god for that, I must admit it was getting rather scary. Brothers Parting Stone by the way, its supposed to be where Wordsworth, the famous Lakeland poet and his brother had the parting of their ways. I approached the large rock, went round to the front of it facing the valley, I was Ok, barring having still a number of miles to get into Patterdale, I was at the top of the valley, just keep going down and you are safe. Believe me, that is how I felt, safe. By the rock, I was surprised, surprised to see a couple sheltering from the rain, a lovely couple, rain soaked but people, people I was so happy to see. We had a brief, very brief chat, they told me they were from Colorado, our paths would cross again. I left them, making my way downwards, no sight of a path whatsoever, I couldn't really care less, I was going down and to safety. The mist started to clear as I got lower down, still no sign of a recognisable path, then I caught sight of a footbridge I knew I had to cross. I got there, crossed then followed a track into Patterdale. Earlier in the morning I said to Liz that it would be a tough day for me, probably take me about 8 hours to walk, expect me no sooner than 5:00 PM in the pub, I got there 5:02, by hook or by crook I managed it. Today, without a shadow of a doubt was my hardest days walk ever, by a country mile. Sorry but no photos, too wet to mess about with cameras or phones, plus I couldn't be arsed , I wanted to finish and end a nightmare. 
Later in the evening we heard other Coast to Coasters talking about their experiences of the day, a fair number who were coming through to Patterdale, had reached the halfway point, walked down into Grasmere then caught taxis or got public transport to get here. Tomorrow morning I meet another guy who done the same walk today as me, he rescued my full Coast to Coast walk for me, all will be revealed on day 4

Day2 May 14th

A fine morning to set off walking today, warm, dry and clear, perfect walking conditions, this was hopefully going to be the start of three days of
                                              "walking in a walker's wonderland"........
A short road walk and you soon approach the start of a walk alongside Ennerdale Water, you can take north or south route, I took the south, a pleasant stroll of roughly 2 miles, then a good stretch through the valley until I reached Black Sail Hut, a youth hostel at the end ot the valley, one of the remotest YHA properties there is. There were quite a number of people sitting having lunch here, seemed a good idea to have mine, so thats what I did. I slipped off my rucksack, popped inside the hut into the back, there was a pricelist sign, noticed cup of tea £1, asked the guy standing with his back to me at the sink for a cuppa please, "sugar and milk", "just milk please mate", "will bring it out for you", "cheers mate". Went and sat on a bench with others out there, eating my lunch when this guy came out with teas and coffees, had my cuppa from him. I handed him a £1 coin, he said whats that for, I said for my cuppa, "thats alright fella, Ive put a tenner in for all us lot" oh shit, what a bloody idiot I felt, everything inside is done on a self service honesty policy, he was a member of the group I was sitting with. Anyhow, I made sure my quid went into the coffers inside.

Ennerdale Water

Ennerdale Water

Ennerdale Water

Ennerdale Water

Long but pleasant walk from Ennerdale Water down the valley

Approaching Black Sail Hut

Lunchtime at Black Sail Hut with "waiter service"!!!

Leaving Black Sail Hut you walk a short distance then its a steepish climb alongside Loft Beck, soon reaching the flat expanse on top. It's then easterly then northernly to reach the Honister Pass and the visitors centre at the slate mine. This was a scenic walk taking in grand views of Lakeland all around me, making the most of it, you never know whats in store the days afterwards!!!!!!!!!!!!
After the slate mine it was a lovely gradual ascent down the pass into Seatoller (Borrowdale) to our accommodation for the night, Glaramara House.

Starting ascent alongside Loft Beck

Looking up Loft Beck

Getting higher and higher

Grand views on top of fells, Ennerdale Water and Buttermere can be seen

panaramic views over Lakeland

 

Honister slate mine visitor centre

Down the Honister Pass

View from our window, Glaramara House. I think acceptable is being a bit unkind.

Day 1 May 13th

So, first day of my Coast to Coast walk is over, compared to my Pennine Way I done last year I didn't get the same "buzz" today. I was looking forward to it of cause, but probaly last years walk being my first long distance maybe explains it. Anyhow Liz drove me down from our overnight stay in Ennerdale Bridge, which happens to be where I was heading back to today, down to a windswept and drizzly St Bees shoreline. I went through the usual ritual of wetting boots in sea and picking a pebble from the beach, this is then taken with you to be cast onto the beach at the walks end, which is Robin Hood's Bay.

Picking "my pebble from the beach

Being an ex postman, rather than just take it with me, why not deliver it!!!!!

Usual photo shoot at "official" start........

.........and off I go.

The first 3 or 4 miles is walked around the cliffs of St Bees Head, a pleasant walk, windy but the rain had actually stopped more or less at the start of the walk. Only been walking 20 minutes or so and I heard a ping from my mobile, you know when you travel abroad and get the local services network, well I got one from "Isle of Man", shows how close it is away from here.

Looking back to where I left Liz, see you later this afternoon!!!

Clear pathway over cliffside

Thousands of sea birds on cliffs

St Bees lighthouse

Last look at the sea before turning inland

Turning south from the cliffs and shoreline you make your way through the small villages of Sandwith, Moor Row and Cleator, not picturesque by any means, but..........
You then have the only real climb of the day, a long but gradual ascent of Dent Hill, this is where I met my first C2Coasters, two guys, not real walkers Shawn and Vitrold (excuse spelling). Shawn was from Southampton, Vitrold close to me from Derby. I spent the rest of the day walking and chatting with them, good company and I was to meet them later on my journey. Getting to the higher reaches of Dent Hill, the visibility dropped, mist obscuring any sights into the distance. once over the top it dropped gradually but the last 200 metres or so was probably the steepest descent of the next 12 days, fortunately it was nice soft grass underfoot. At the bottom you reach a beautiful little area called Nannycatch, a small dale with a stream or "beck" running through, very pretty indeed. This then led to a road which takes you into the village of Ennerdale Bridge, by this time the sun was out, leaving you with views over to the Lakeland hills and mountains, calling out to you for the next three days walking, bring it on, this will be the highlight of this C2C in more ways that I realised!!!!!!!

Heading inland, Dent Hill shrouded in mist in the distance

Nannycatch

Vitrold and Shawn

Ending the day on a high, Lakeland hills in the distance

In one weeks time, hopefully I should be on the 2nd stage of my C2C long distance walk. After the excitement and fond memories of doing The Pennine Way last June, I'm really looking forward to this new adventure, (call it what you like). I completeted any worthwhile training preperation yesterday with an 18 mile walk around the White Peak area. Catching the bus to Haddon Hall I walked to Youlgreave then onto the small villages of Monyash, Flagg, Taddington, Ashford in the Water then finishing in Bakewell. 18 miles in 6 hours, which included my lunch break, I was well pleased, hope I can do that sort of mileage through the Lake District next week. I won't, that I do know, great area for walking, probably the best in England but it can be very hard going, long steep climbs and everything. Done a few walks up there, I'm looking forward to that part of my C2C, hope I survive !!!
 So hopefully I will try and do a running blog, as I did last year, depending on wifi access of cause, ok bring it on.

This time I will be taking a few "selfies", don't worry, not that many, this is due to the fact I have done a bit of DIY and come up with this....

  by drilling a hole in one my walking poles and screwing in a camera adapter thread, hey presto...

find a a suitable place to shove the pole into the ground, set timer on camera and "Bobs your uncle".

 Hope you'll enjoy reading my blog as much as I will enjoy writing them