Day 12 24th May

Last year in june, on the morning of my last leg of the Pennine Way, Liz came to me, we hugged each other, "I'll be waiting in Kirk Yetholm for you, take care, love you". Today that emotion we both felt last year wasn't there, still a kiss and hug before I left, keep safe and that, which is the usual, but it just wasn't me finishing "My Challenge" which last year certainly was.
We went on our differring journeys for the day, she was taking our dog Mojo to the seaside, they had a good day as she filled me in later as usual of her daily travels.
I walked a very short way, before I picked up the trail proper I made time to take a few photos of probably the most beautiful packhorse bridge I've seen. Beggars Bridge, on the very outskirt of Glaisdale crossing the River Esk, there is a plaque closeby telling a lovely story about its origins. I won't tell you what it is, (google "Beggars Bridge, Glaisdale" and take a look.

Beggars Bridge

Beggars Bridge

I joined the trail, making my way steadily up through Arncliff Woods, walking on the Esk Valley Walk leading me then through Egton Bridge and into Grosmont. A really nice start to the day, calm, tranquil, sunny but not too hot, a pleasant start.

Alongside the River Esk

I had read in various trip reports of the C2C that you get to Grosmont then there is a real buggar of a climb getting out the village, I usually find that these are somewhat exagerrated................. but not in this case. I walked a short way, steep yes, not that far actually, I turned right onto the next road, steep, no very steep for a road, but its not that far before I turn right again, thats going to be ok, exagerrated as usual............. it was a bloody grueller, the heat of the sun now beating down, it eventually levelled out onto the moors, thank god thats done for.

Leaving Grosmont, way down in the valley

Nearly at the top

 After gaining all the height there is then a further stretch on the same road, soon crossing moors on your left to make your way to the main Pickering to Whitby road.

Shortly before the main road, Pickering to Whitby

A few hundred yards further, you cross the road and turn east to take you down an hillside leading to a lovely small village, Little Beck where you then have a wonderful 2 mile hike through Little Beck Woods. Me and Liz have walked down here when holidaying in Yorkshire, it really is a nice spot. Here you come across The Hermitage, a huge boulder that someone carved out hollow,you then come across Falling Foss, a very scenic waterfall. Here is also a rest area, a place to get food and drinks, I was making very good timing so I had a pot of tea for one, 2 or 3 cups to refresh me, just the job to carry me through to the finish.

Falling Foss

The Hermitage

A further short half mile or so and you reach the end of this wood, you then more or less double back on yourself to walk parallel along a tarmac road to reach more open moors, after this the moors are gone. The path through these moors take you into the village of Hawsker, with only another 5/6 miles to go, I sat at a bench and had lunch. I was joined by a woman and her 9 year old son. They were from Texas, she told me that this was her second C2C, she had previously done it with another son who was then 12. I soon went, leaving them to enjoy the afternoon sun, it had got quite hot now, but not by Texan standards, as her son had pointed out to me. It was now just a matter of not falling or tripping up and I would be finishing well inside the next two hours. A short stretch of road, then through a caravan park, (where you were kindly asked not to peer inside any caravan windows)!!!! If you don't want people to do something, don't they bloody realise, don't give them a bloody invite to, what bloody idiots, oh well, I preffered looking out at the sea not far away now. I reached the cliffside path, turned south and made my way towards Robin Hoods Bay. I walked nearly all that way with a nice old fellow who was staying close by, he was making his way back from Whitby, he'd walked this morning, had lunch in Whitby then made his way back. Pleasant chat, interesting stuff he was telling me, walking slowed down, I wasn't bothered, timing it to meet Liz, no need getting there too early. A nice stroll soon brought me to the end of the clifftops, goodbyes and well dones were said as I left my companion of the last hour.

Lovely cliff top walk to finish 12 lovely days walking

I made my way down the winding street to the bottom of the village, I got there just before Liz, sorry Liz, but its obviously your fault, timekeeping and punctuality isn't your strongest point ha ha. As I waited for a few minutes I used the time to send text messages, one to Lew, one to my three daughters to let them know I'd arrived safe and sound and one to my mate John back home, I told him he would be informed. Liz arrived, and just how we left this morning, no real emotion like last year, we had a hug and kiss and congratulations, had a half hearted attempt by Mojo to greet me. One thing  that pleased me, the tide was in, right up to the quayside, no further 100 yard walk out to the sea, because just as tradition as it at the start, you splash in the water to clean your boots. That was ironic actually, the boots were clean, Ive walked for 30 minutes up on Kinder Scout, got covered in peat and mud, here I've walked 12 days and not a touch of mud. Thats it then, we had an overnight stop in Hawsker, had a nice celebratory meal and a couple of pints in the local pub, work to do now Liz, what and when is the next long distance to arrange......................

I've only been for a walk

Thanks Jane, next time can you put a opener in the package please

Day 11 23rd May

Penultimate day, the time had fled by since I started 10 days ago, the first feeling of sadness, knowing that there was only two days left, only my second long distance walk but they are so bloody addictive. Never mind, plenty of time to think where next, today and tomorrow I've got two 18 milers to do, today from Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale, then from there to the lovely  finale at Robin Hoods Bay.
I was waiting in the pub waiting for my lift back to rejoin the route, the landlord said that he'd take me with an American couple, I assumed it would be the couple in the pub last night. I went outside, the couple weren't there yet, I climbed into the back seat of the car, the driver and the couple then came, got in, we all said "good morning" and away we went. As soon as we started moving the girl sitting alongside me turned "Mick?", err "Christino?", the guy in front turned round, "Andy?" he said hi Mick. If it wasn't the couple I'd very briefly met by the "Brothers Parting Stone" days ago in the Lake District, and on that day all we could see of each other was small faces peeping through waterproof hoods and coats. We soon reached the drop off point, the three of us got out, said a fond farewell to the Buck Inn landlord, and we all agreed that we'd walk together. We only spent 3 hours together, they were only going as far as The Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge, but the three hours we walked together was probably the nicest three hours I'd spent all week. Now I am not the world's best conversationalist, not by a long way, but the three of us never stopped chatting till we parted. A real, genuine and honest couple, mid thirties, pushing forty maybe, there wasn't much we hadn't heard about our lives in that short space of time. I stopped for a cuppa in the Lion, Andy and "Cricket" as Christino is called by everybody, (I soon found that out), had a bit of lunch, I then said my goodbyes, really sad that I hadn't had the opportunity to see them more. By the way Andy, you will probably never come across this blog I'm doing, but good luck and all the best in your new upcoming career.

First photo of the day, so busy talking....The Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge

Ok, where we we, those first three hours sped by, very easy walking, once the first gentle ascent was done it really was plain sailing, taking in pleasant moorland views, I like the moors, barren, often very few people around, suits me down to a T. I had a short road walk after the Lion, passing by an old travellers marker stone, Fat Betty, tradition says to leave a portion of food etc then take one that a previous person had left. In days gone by perhaps a nice thing, I didn't bother doing it though, nobody is going to starve in that area in this day and age, plus I couldn't be bothered taking my rucksack off to get to a snack bar.

"Fat Betty"

I soon left the road, the sun was out in force at this time, I waited my time to find shade and rest and have my lunch, the chance soon arrived, a place called Trough House, a small stone building, locked, it could very well be a shooting lodge, there were many grouse butts around this area. I sat round the back in full shade, had lunch, my daily energizing bottle of lucozade, took my boots off, rested my feet then carried on after 20 minutes or so. Thats as long as I ever take for a rest when out walking, its normally 5/10 minutes two or three times during the day, I just get restless and fidgety, its just my way. It was then a pleasant easy stroll across Glaisdale Moor before coming into Glaisdale, a nice pretty looking village sitting in the beautiful Esk Valley, bathed in the afternoons sun when I arrived.

Moorland views down into the Esk Valley

Track leading down into Glaisdale

 The evening accommodation was the Arncliffe Arms, a busyish village pub, nothing special but room was clean, decent food and good ale, looking forward now to tomorrows finale, mixed emotions, sad and glad!!!

Day 10 May 22nd

So the day started by a gradually upward road then track out of Osmotherley, this eventually met the C2C path which at this stage follows the Cleveland Way path for quite a number of miles along the north edges of the North York Moors. The weather kept fine today, warm, sunny, cool breezes occasionally but most of all clear skies and views. For quite a way the trail goes through woodlands, and these were a nice contrast to the open moorland later in the day.

Looking back down the approach track up to C2C path

C2C/Cleveland Way path, and off we go.

I was making good progress, I walked off and on with a middle aged couple, pleasant and talkative but they tended to stop too often for me, we did come together for lunch though, at an outdoor visitor centre, Lordstones. Here I bought a pot of tea, had a huge piece of fruit cake with me to eat, being eyed up by somewhat hungry watchers,

Couldn't resist giving them some cake

they were so close I got the impression they could have eaten from your hand, they seemed so used to people. The walk was turning into a good old roller coaster of a ride, I never realised there would be so many ups and downs, quite steepish at times, I don't tend to mind these type of walks, long may I feel like that. The ups and downs led me all the way to the days last landmark, the Wainstones, a well known outcrop of rocks, here I had a short rest and a quick bite to eat and drink. I then phoned my digs for the night, the Buck Inn at Chop Gate, you phone when you reach the Wainstones they then give you 30 minutes or so to get down to the roadside, Here someone comes, picks you up and drives you the few miles to the pub, quite a lot of b&b's offer this service at this area. He was on time, I was only waiting 5 minutes or so.
One thing occured this evening when me and Liz were dining in the pub, I had my back to this table where an American couple were sitting, they were discussing the menu. They were undecided about a couple of the dishes, so Mick here turns slightly and suggests one of the German dishes that were on, I was enjoying mine. They thanked me and thats all that was said, until tomorrow morning...............

Random photos of the days walk

Well flagged paths for long stretches

Wainstones at top of hillside

Wainstones

Day 9 May 21st

I made use of an unexpected bonus this morning, a group of cyclists in the b&b, (Old Brewery guest house) needed early breakfasts as they were being picked up early for some reason or other. The owners opened up for breakfasts around 7:00 AM, I took advantage of this, had breakfast, then I got Liz to drive me the few miles back to Brompton to pick up the trail. This she did, we said goodbye for the day, she went back to have breakfast with Deborah and David, while I set out on 20 odd miles of absolute bloody boredom. Now I knew this was going to be a bit of a dull stretch, linking The Dales with the North York Moors, I didn't realise how bloody tedious it was, fields, roads, farm tracks, more roads, the highest incline was a road bridge going over a railway line, it was making Lincolnshire look like it was a mountain range. At times like these you just have to blank your mind, switch on autopilot and walk, walk, then walk some more. Being on my own like this I tend to break into song occassionally, I particularly like to sing Ewan MacColl's "Manchester Rambler", only I have to change one lyric, Manchester to Derbyshire. I only know the first verse and chorus but I love to hear this, and like I said, I sing it (not too loud, don't want to frighten anybody).
              

I've been over Snowdon, I've slept upon Crowdon
I've camped by the Wainestones as well
I've sunbathed on Kinder, been burned to a cinder
And many more things I can tell
My rucksack has oft been me pillow
The heather has oft been me bed
And sooner than part from the mountains
I think I would rather be dead

Ch: I'm a rambler, I'm a rambler from Manchester (Derbyshire) way
I get all me pleasure the hard moorland way
I may be a wageslave on Monday
But I am a free man on Sunday

 I eventually got sight of the North York Moors in front, I was actually looking forward to an incline to get up, but just short of this I passed through Ingleby Cross and Ingleby Arncliffe, and I had another nice warm feeling come to me, similar to the one I mentioned the other day (honesty box).

Passing by this one house I saw this coolbox standing on a low wall, I looked inside, and true to their word inside was about a dozen bottles of water with iceblocks keeping them cool. I don't know if they were put there by the parish council or an individual, just knowing that someone had put them for us, with no payment required, what a wondeful gesture. The water was nice and cold by the way.


 From here on you do have to climb to reach onto the moors, well its actually woodland you make your way up, a pleasure from the earlier flat walking. Once at the top I had to turn south, off route to reach Osmotherley, the nights accommodation being the Golden Lion, good room, good beer, good food.
A few photos showing it wasn't entirely flat, although both at the end of my day.

Hills on the horizon

On the hill tops looking back at flatlands

Although the day was boring a few things along the way made me smile, photos below

Come on, accommodation can't be that difficult to find

One farm owner with a sense of humour

Glad that's not the way to go, straight into an hedge

Day 8 May 20th

Back walking solo today, I said my goodbyes to Jo and Lew, they were travelling back home via a day in the Lake District. I heard later that it rained most of their day, a shame as I found out myself 4 or 5 days ago. Anyway, me and Liz were stopping in Richmond tonight, a town we were looking forward to seeing, we weren't disappointed, it was lovely.
Setting off from Reeth I had a few miles of road walking, not always the best thing to be doing, but it was earlyish in the morning, quiet and not many people about. I soon arrived at Marrick Priory an old Benedictine nunnery, its now an outdoor education centre for young people. Close by here you finally leave the road to climb a series of steps leading to the village of Marrick, this was a pleasant walk leading through Steps Woods. Then it was a fair bit of fields and pastures leading to a small village, Marske, then onto an area called Applegarth, this seemed to be ending of the Yorkshire Dales for me, soon reaching Richmond.

A few random photos taken between Reeth & richmond

 Instead of just walking to Richmond, I walked a further 4 miles to Brompton in Swale, this was to shorten what would have been a walk about 25/26 miles the next day. Arriving in Richmond I knew I had nearly 3 hours to get to Brampton, no problem at all, so first I called at the nights b&b, left my rucksack, took a bottle of water, rainproof shell and my wallet and made my way out of town. I followed a cycle track alongside the river, a nice relaxing stroll, only thing was, I forgot all sense and time and went past a turning I should have got off at. Rather than double back on myself, I looked on my map, there was an alternative way, similar distance, so I headed for a small place called Easby, passing by a fine looking abbey, then a long stretch of bridleway led me onto the road for Brampton. I reached the bus stop for a bus into Richmond, an hour to spare. "Farmers Arms", "Black Sheep", "pint of" "public house". Rearrange these last few words in order and you know how I spent 50 minutes waiting for my bus.
The evening was spent in town with friends Deborah and David who had travelled up for the weekend to meet us. A few pints and a real nice meal, a good way to spend a saturday night, then bedtime for me, a long day still ahead for me tomorrow.

Day 7 May 19th

Another shortish walk today (11/12 miles), taking us on our way through Swalesdale to the pretty village of Reeth, there are two routes to take, the low walk through the valley or, our chosen route, the high section over the moors, these take in the old abandoned lead mine works.
We started our walk dropping down to the rivers edge, crossing a footbridge, I'd crossed this bridge last year, its the crossroads between Pennine Way and the Coast to Coast. This time though, I was at the halfway stage, last year I'd perhaps have another 30 or so miles to reach that point.

Falls near to the PW, C2C crossroads

We walked for a while alongside the river before starting to climb up alongside Swinner Gill, passing by Crackpot Hall, an old derelict building. The route started to get steeper, the sides of the valley getting narrower, I thought it was a great stretch to do, by the time we had to turn easterly along East Grain we knew we had worked bloody hard so far. There were many derelict buildings around this area, lead mining must have been thriving many years ago.

Crackpot Hall

Path over Swinner Gill

 

 

Lew (mountain goat)

Top of Swinner Gill

We walked on Melbecks Moor now, dropping steeply down, then climbed steeply out from Gunnerside Gill, there was old mine buildings here also.

 

 

Gunnerside Gill

Gunnerside Gill

 

Gunnerside Gill

 

 It was then a matter of getting heads down and eating away the miles, rather barren moors then reaching the open grassy hills in Swalesdale once more. A few miles from Reeth we met Robert, a solo walker we got chatting to, the time quickly passed by as entered Reeth, found our stay for the night, Kings Arms public house. Robert came and joined us for a pint, talk got round to him being a motorbike enthusiast, Lew then began talking bikes, I never knew he had a bit of a passion for them, they were really having a fine conversation. Not being a biker I took the opportunity of leaving them to it, I went for a shower then came a down bit later, Liz and Jo had arrived by this time.

Back into Swalesdale, green and pleasant countryside

Day 6 May 18th

Thursday morning and all ready to start three days walking across the Yorkshire Dales, the first two I would be accompanied by my good friend Lew, he joined me last year for the first and last two stages of the Pennine Way. If they turn out as good as those, I am sure Lew will be as pleased as myself. Before I left our evenings accommodation I had a brief stroll in the town, I saw Mike setting off early, today he was carrying on to Reeth, I wouldn't be there for two days so our paths wouldn't meet again, I wished him well and good luck.
Me and Lew started off on our way, not too early as it is a reasonably short walk, about 11/12 miles to Keld. Already the sun was out and this remained with us nearly all day, making it a pleasurable walk. We headed alongside a lane to take us onto the Dales, gradually climbing onto Hartley Fell where it then became a track then a walking path up to Nine Standards Rigg. These are a series of cairn type structures, the origin of which is unknown.

Outskirts of Kirkby Stephen, fingerpost shows I will reach halfway today

View back down Hartley Fell

Nine Standard's coming into view

We had a few minutes rest on top, enjoying the views and taking photos of ourselves and for a few other walkers, a fair few about today. We carried on, clear flagged paths are now layed down around this notoriously boggy area, a great job's been done of it. From Nine Standards there are 3 routes you can take, you are advised to take the one for the time of year, probably to give the other areas time to establish growth etc, we fell into line with this and took the seasonal "red route".

Well deserved rest for Lew

Lew and myself, Nine Standards

It was then a pleasant walk across the open expanse of moors, roughly 4 miles on we stopped at Ravenseat Farm, had tea and refreshments, served by host Amanda. Now any dedicated walker will tend to watch TV or videos about walks, ie Julia Bradbury documentaries, and one thing, if you do watch these you will surely have seen this place and Amanda, a "celebrity" of these programmes. She and her husband  live and work raising sheep in this very remote area of the Dales. She was serving me and Lew with our tea, one little girl was playing close by, I said to Amanda "wheres this one down the line" I think she said number 7, she now is the mother of 9, yes 9 children. 

Lew with Ravenseat Farm just behind

Cuppa tea time, "Earl Grey" naturally !!!

Photo with "celeberity" Amanda

We left the farmstead, said our goodbyes to Amanda and fellow walkers, of which there were quite a few taking refreshments there, we soon came into the bottom of the dale and walked alongside the River Swale on our way into Keld. This was turning into a lovely last few miles amble, sunny, warm and lovely scenery. At one point we spotted this bird, very distinctive wing markings, black with a broad white band running the length of them, Lew as been taking an interest in ornithology for a short while now, he couldn't make out what the species was though. Later I googled it, found out it was an oyster catcher, I felt rather pleased with myself after seeing one of these, but, it turns out they ate rather common in these neck of the woods. We passed a small waterfall, pleasant area where we took more photos, then made gentle unhurried progress to Keld Lodge, the nights stopover.

Crossing over River Swale

Beauty spot alongside river

Best way to finish a fine day's walk, enjoy Lew

 The evening wasn't spent in Keld village, as we had our own transport we decided to take Jo and Lew (Jo drove actually) to a place me and liz stopped last year, Tan Hill Inn, 4 miles north. This pub is the highest pub in England, as remote as anything you will find, we enjoyed our dinner and a few pints, a chat with a couple of guys, one walking the Pennine Way for a 7th time, the other a keen cyclist. A pleasant evening all round.